Shanghai · Former French Concession

O.P.S. Cafe

The house made syrup and nitro tap bar at O.P.S. Cafe, with steel dosing hoppers, glassware, and autumn branches on the counter

O.P.S. stands for open mind, possibility, space, and the tiny room on Taiyuan Road lives up to the name. At just nine square meters, most guests drink standing up, and the menu holds only five coffees at a time, chosen and changed with the seasons by a barista with national competition credentials.

There is no espresso, cappuccino, or latte to fall back on here; each of the five drinks is its own small experiment, poured and explained by the barista who made it, down to the origin of the beans and why that particular process was chosen. Weekday visits mean a short wait, weekends can run past forty minutes, but the room has built a loyal following on the idea that five well considered cups beat a menu of twenty forgettable ones.