Forno Ritorno

A Testaccio bakery in the back room of the Vinificio wine bar, on Via Amerigo Vespucci between the Tiber and the Aventine. The counter is built around laminated pastry and bread, with specialty coffee poured beside it, including filter roasts from DAK Coffee Roasters of Amsterdam that change through the season. Each new coffee is announced on its Instagram as it arrives.

Several of the filter coffees are boxed to take home, so it doubles as a place to pick up beans as well as breakfast. It is open every day from 8:00 to 16:00, a bakery led stop that suits a morning before wandering up the Aventine. Guest bakers and afternoon pop ups join the counter from time to time.